Tenerife – Not What It Used To Be – Part 2

Emerging from a tunnel, we had a stupendous view down to the ocean, near which, clumps of white cottages lay like scattered sugar cubes on a green baize. We pulled over at Almaciga, nothing more than a cliffside cluster of whitewashed houses laced with narrow alleyways. On the coastal road were a trio of ocean-front bars and restaurants offering fresh seafood and frosty refreshments. Armed with a plate of squid, boiled potatoes, crusty bread and a jug of local wine we sat watching a couple of locals surf the waves breaking over the craggy coastline.

It was at the furthest point possible from Playa de Las Americas, separated from civilisation by 1,000-metre-high mountains and a turbulent sea. This perfect escape was